1. Planning

Before you start, map out a rough idea of where you are going to put in your straining posts, turning posts, gateways and any stiles. It is worth doing this before you place your fencing order. Site preparation is absolutely key – to stop the wire being snagged and prevent damage to a brand new fence, the area must be cut back and clear at the outset for machinery to safely operate and complete a successful fence.

2. Straining posts

It is crucial to get a solid straining post at each end of the fence that won’t move when you crank up the tension on the wire. Use 8ft posts with a 6-7in diameter and drive them in with the post-knocker to the desired depth. For a decent cattle fence you will need about 45in of post sticking out of the ground.

3. Struts

Cut a shallow notch in the strainer post about 18in off the ground. It is also vital to ensure the notch is shallow; this keeps the post strong and doesn’t expose the untreated core of the timber. We use a mortise and tenon joint when locating a strut; both at the strainer and at the base of the strut.

4. Turning posts

You should use a turning post for every direction change – never attempt to make a turn on a standard post. Use the same technique as a strainer post, but you can get away with smaller 7ft posts with a 5-6in diameter.

5. Gate posts

Fences should never be strained off a gatepost as they will get pulled about over time. The correct technique is to put in a strainer post about 3ft away from the gatepost and fill the gap with rails.

6. Wrapping netting

Always use high-tensile wire if you can afford it and start by wrapping this around the first staining post. Leave long tails on the wire and tie using a t-clip – this allows the wire to slide and tighten around the post as it is tensioned.

Also make sure the wire is positioned in the middle of the post and cut out the vertical strand next to the strut so that it can pull neatly into line.